Saturday, January 13, 2007
Rolled Brim Earflap Hat
Materials Needed- 4.5mm/7us circular needles and DPNs
- a yarn needle
- stitch markers
- A medium weight worsted yarn. I used 1 ball of Patons Classic Merino Wool in FOREST. The best colorway ever. (i like camoflague)
Skills Needed- Cast on, Knit, K2tog, how to knit in the round, how to pick up stitches and how to knit an I-Cord
Gauge- Sorry still have to get this. I always forget to write it down
Size- This will produce a hat that fits comfortably on a 22 inch noggin. If needed just add or subtract the number of stitches needed to make it fit the size needed...
Pattern
- Cast on 90 sts and join in the round without twisting stitches. PM (put marker) at beginning of round
- Knit every row for 5 inches (measure from just under needle to the bottom edge of hat, only pulling rolled edge out slightly, its going to be slightly rolled on the finished hat)
- PM every 15 stitches (thats 6 markers total, if you have decreased or increased stitches you have to change the number of stitches between each marker)
- K2tog after every marker
- Knit 4 rounds
- K2tog after every marker
- Knit 2 rounds
- K2tog after every marker until 3 stitches remain (remember if using a circular needle to change to DPNs or another meathod when needed)
- Start a 3 stitch I-Cord using 2 DPNs for 3 inches
- K2tog, Knit 1
-K2tog, cut yarn tail and pull through last stitch
Earflaps
I made my earflaps 6 inches apart at the back of the hat
-Start to pick up 26 stitches 3 inches from the "back of the hat" (which i think is where your rounds were joined) These stitches were picked up not from the cast on edge but a few purl bumps up so that the edge looks slightly rolled up creating a bigger ridge at the beginning of the ear flap. I tried to take a picture to demonstrate what i meant, they are posted above. If this is not understandable you can just pick the stitches up from the cast on edge.
- Knit in garter stitch for 8 rows
- K2tog at beginning and end of row
-Knit 4 rows
-K2tog at beginning and end of row
-Knit 2 rows
-K2tog at beginning and end of row
-Knit 2 rows
-K2tog at beginning and end of row
-Knit 2 rows
-K2tog at beginning and end of row until 3 stitches remain on needle
-Begin I-Cord on a DPN needle and knit it for 14 inches
-K2tog, Knit 1
-K2tog, cut yarn tail and pull through last stitch
-Repeat this on the other side of the join (3 inches the other way)
-When its all done weave in all ends and tie the nubbin attop the hat in a knot. I also knotted the ends of the ear flap ties. The I-Cord on top of the hat can easily be excluded by just weaving a yarn end and gather all the stitches at the top of the hat when there 6 stitches left on the needle...
Written by Christy Snell
Hope this ones ok...
Any questions, etc. please let me know! thanks everyone.
- a yarn needle
- stitch markers
- A medium weight worsted yarn. I used 1 ball of Patons Classic Merino Wool in FOREST. The best colorway ever. (i like camoflague)
Skills Needed- Cast on, Knit, K2tog, how to knit in the round, how to pick up stitches and how to knit an I-Cord
Gauge- Sorry still have to get this. I always forget to write it down
Size- This will produce a hat that fits comfortably on a 22 inch noggin. If needed just add or subtract the number of stitches needed to make it fit the size needed...
Pattern
- Cast on 90 sts and join in the round without twisting stitches. PM (put marker) at beginning of round
- Knit every row for 5 inches (measure from just under needle to the bottom edge of hat, only pulling rolled edge out slightly, its going to be slightly rolled on the finished hat)
- PM every 15 stitches (thats 6 markers total, if you have decreased or increased stitches you have to change the number of stitches between each marker)
- K2tog after every marker
- Knit 4 rounds
- K2tog after every marker
- Knit 2 rounds
- K2tog after every marker until 3 stitches remain (remember if using a circular needle to change to DPNs or another meathod when needed)
- Start a 3 stitch I-Cord using 2 DPNs for 3 inches
- K2tog, Knit 1
-K2tog, cut yarn tail and pull through last stitch
Earflaps
I made my earflaps 6 inches apart at the back of the hat
-Start to pick up 26 stitches 3 inches from the "back of the hat" (which i think is where your rounds were joined) These stitches were picked up not from the cast on edge but a few purl bumps up so that the edge looks slightly rolled up creating a bigger ridge at the beginning of the ear flap. I tried to take a picture to demonstrate what i meant, they are posted above. If this is not understandable you can just pick the stitches up from the cast on edge.
- Knit in garter stitch for 8 rows
- K2tog at beginning and end of row
-Knit 4 rows
-K2tog at beginning and end of row
-Knit 2 rows
-K2tog at beginning and end of row
-Knit 2 rows
-K2tog at beginning and end of row
-Knit 2 rows
-K2tog at beginning and end of row until 3 stitches remain on needle
-Begin I-Cord on a DPN needle and knit it for 14 inches
-K2tog, Knit 1
-K2tog, cut yarn tail and pull through last stitch
-Repeat this on the other side of the join (3 inches the other way)
-When its all done weave in all ends and tie the nubbin attop the hat in a knot. I also knotted the ends of the ear flap ties. The I-Cord on top of the hat can easily be excluded by just weaving a yarn end and gather all the stitches at the top of the hat when there 6 stitches left on the needle...
Written by Christy Snell
Hope this ones ok...
Any questions, etc. please let me know! thanks everyone.
Girly Pink Earflap Hat
Skills Needed-
Cast On, Knit, Purl, Knit in round, K2tog, picking up stitches and Knitting an I-Cord
Materials Needed-
10us circular needle, 11us circular needle as well as DPN's in both sizes (or just use DPN's), stitch markers, yarn needle
2 balls of MEGA Super Chunky by King Cole
Gauge- (still need to get this sorry)
Pattern
-Cast on 45 stitches on 10us needles and pm (put marker) at beginning of round
-Knit in garter stitch for 5 rows (for circular knitting that's knit one row and purl the next, repeat)
-Change to 11us needle
-Knit every round for 5 inches
-next row pm after every 9 stitches
-K2tog after each marker
-Knit 3 rounds no decreases
-K2tog after each marker until there is 5 stitches on the needle. Remember to change to DPNs (or other meathod) when needed.
-Cut a yarn tail and weave through remaining stitches with a yarn needle.
Earflaps
-Using 11us needles pick up 15 stitches from bottom cast on edge of hat
-Knit in garter sitch for 5 rows
-K2tog at beginning and end of row
-knit 3 rows (still in garter stitch)
-K2tog at beginning and end of row
-Knit 1 row
-K2tog at beginning and end of row
-Knit 1 row
-K2 tog at beginning and end of row and repeat this decrease row until there is only 2 stitchs left
-Begin I-Cord and knit until it is 10inches long (or however long you want it)
-k2tog, Knit 1
-K2tog and cut yarn tail and pull through stitch
-Repeat this on the other side so the earflaps at the back are 5 stitches apart. There will be a smaller amount of stitches at the back then at the front of the hat.
-And weave in all ends when finished
Written by Christy Snell
This pattern is slightly different then the one i made. Mine had braided yarn as the earflap ties but i was finding it too difficult to explain how i did it... if anyone wants to do it that way and cant figure it out i can explain it in writing or take a picture! Let me know!
Please if there is any questions, concerns or comments feel free to leave a message. I like input so I can improve my patterns and make them easy to understand for all.
Cast On, Knit, Purl, Knit in round, K2tog, picking up stitches and Knitting an I-Cord
Materials Needed-
10us circular needle, 11us circular needle as well as DPN's in both sizes (or just use DPN's), stitch markers, yarn needle
2 balls of MEGA Super Chunky by King Cole
Gauge- (still need to get this sorry)
Pattern
-Cast on 45 stitches on 10us needles and pm (put marker) at beginning of round
-Knit in garter stitch for 5 rows (for circular knitting that's knit one row and purl the next, repeat)
-Change to 11us needle
-Knit every round for 5 inches
-next row pm after every 9 stitches
-K2tog after each marker
-Knit 3 rounds no decreases
-K2tog after each marker until there is 5 stitches on the needle. Remember to change to DPNs (or other meathod) when needed.
-Cut a yarn tail and weave through remaining stitches with a yarn needle.
Earflaps
-Using 11us needles pick up 15 stitches from bottom cast on edge of hat
-Knit in garter sitch for 5 rows
-K2tog at beginning and end of row
-knit 3 rows (still in garter stitch)
-K2tog at beginning and end of row
-Knit 1 row
-K2tog at beginning and end of row
-Knit 1 row
-K2 tog at beginning and end of row and repeat this decrease row until there is only 2 stitchs left
-Begin I-Cord and knit until it is 10inches long (or however long you want it)
-k2tog, Knit 1
-K2tog and cut yarn tail and pull through stitch
-Repeat this on the other side so the earflaps at the back are 5 stitches apart. There will be a smaller amount of stitches at the back then at the front of the hat.
-And weave in all ends when finished
Written by Christy Snell
This pattern is slightly different then the one i made. Mine had braided yarn as the earflap ties but i was finding it too difficult to explain how i did it... if anyone wants to do it that way and cant figure it out i can explain it in writing or take a picture! Let me know!
Please if there is any questions, concerns or comments feel free to leave a message. I like input so I can improve my patterns and make them easy to understand for all.
Thursday, January 11, 2007
Simple Bell Shaped Legwarmers
This pattern is knit flat and then seamed up the back. If you are using a different yarn it would be easily adapted for whatever gauge... They are bell shaped on the bottom so if you feel they are too big then decrease more...
Skills Needed- Cast On, Knit, Purl, K2tog, Cast off.. pretty basic
Materials- 6.5mm/ 10.5 us needles
- 2 balls Rosarios 4 Tentacao 100% wool made in Portugal
The label says: 130m (142yrds) and its gauge is 14sts per 10cm accross and 21 sts per 10cm up on a size 8mm /11us needle
This yarn is very thin to pretty thick so if you want to substitute check the ball band for some info maybe to match up some sort of a gauge...
- Also needed is some 1/4inch elastic to keep them up and a yarn needle for seaming
Gauge- roughly 3sts per inch (remember its thick and thin making it harder to tell)
Pattern
-Cast on 45 stitches and knit in garter stitch for 1 inch
-Knit in stockingknit for 4.5 inches measured from bottom of needle to cast on edge
-K2tog at begining and end of needle
-Knit 3 rows in stocking knit
-K2tog at begining and end of needle
-Knit 3 rows in stocking knit
-K2tog at begining and end of needle
(Now heres where you can make adjustments. If your leg is thinner and you want it to bell more then do more decreases. If your leg is larger do less. Continue until they are the shape and size you would like)
-Continue in stocking knit for 13 inches measured from bottom of needle to cast on edge
(if you need them longer or shorter adjust the length here)
-Start ribbing (optional) I did K3P3 (I ended in a K3 making it not match up but its the back where the seam is going and i didnt mind. You can do proper math and figure out what ribbing you want to do, if any)
-Continue ribbing for 3 inches
-Cast off very loosley
Seam up the back and then weave in elastic around the top
Also this pattern used the entire ball per leg... Not much room for extra so if you want bigger/longer I say get another ball to be safe.
This pattern can be easily adapted. You could do lace work, put in eyelets for the lace to go through. Stripes, more ribbing, less whatever you want... But this is really a very simple pattern. Hopefully everyone can dig it!
Written By Christy Snell
Skills Needed- Cast On, Knit, Purl, K2tog, Cast off.. pretty basic
Materials- 6.5mm/ 10.5 us needles
- 2 balls Rosarios 4 Tentacao 100% wool made in Portugal
The label says: 130m (142yrds) and its gauge is 14sts per 10cm accross and 21 sts per 10cm up on a size 8mm /11us needle
This yarn is very thin to pretty thick so if you want to substitute check the ball band for some info maybe to match up some sort of a gauge...
- Also needed is some 1/4inch elastic to keep them up and a yarn needle for seaming
Gauge- roughly 3sts per inch (remember its thick and thin making it harder to tell)
Pattern
-Cast on 45 stitches and knit in garter stitch for 1 inch
-Knit in stockingknit for 4.5 inches measured from bottom of needle to cast on edge
-K2tog at begining and end of needle
-Knit 3 rows in stocking knit
-K2tog at begining and end of needle
-Knit 3 rows in stocking knit
-K2tog at begining and end of needle
(Now heres where you can make adjustments. If your leg is thinner and you want it to bell more then do more decreases. If your leg is larger do less. Continue until they are the shape and size you would like)
-Continue in stocking knit for 13 inches measured from bottom of needle to cast on edge
(if you need them longer or shorter adjust the length here)
-Start ribbing (optional) I did K3P3 (I ended in a K3 making it not match up but its the back where the seam is going and i didnt mind. You can do proper math and figure out what ribbing you want to do, if any)
-Continue ribbing for 3 inches
-Cast off very loosley
Seam up the back and then weave in elastic around the top
Also this pattern used the entire ball per leg... Not much room for extra so if you want bigger/longer I say get another ball to be safe.
This pattern can be easily adapted. You could do lace work, put in eyelets for the lace to go through. Stripes, more ribbing, less whatever you want... But this is really a very simple pattern. Hopefully everyone can dig it!
Written By Christy Snell
Monday, October 23, 2006
My Pretty Mitts
Pretty Mitts
Materials:
1 ball Patons SWS yarn (silk wool stripes)
A set of 4, 4.5mm dpns
A set of 4, 5mm dpns
Some waste yarn
A yarn needle
Skills needed:
Knit and Purl
Make 1 (m1)
Knit 2 together (K2tog)
Working in the round on dpns
Picking up stitches
Kitchener stitch
Gauge:
On 5mm needles my gauge was 4.5sts per inch
Difficulty level:
If I can do it, you can do it…
Pattern:
The Mitten
-Cast on 28 stitches on 4.5 dpns. Separate them 7 stitches on first and third needle, 14 stitches on second needle.
-Knit 2 Purl 2 ribbing for 18 rows (approx 3 inches)
-Switch to 5mm needles and knit one round
-increase round- Knit 7sts, m1, knit 14 sts, m1, knit 7 stitches
-Knit 2 rounds
-increase round- Knit 8 sts, m1, Knit 14 sts, m1, knit 8 sts
-Knit 9 rows (approx 5 inches to bottom of ribbing)
-thumb hole round for left hand- Knit 4 sts, put 4 sts on waste yarn, cast back on 4 sts, knit rest of round
-thumb hole round for right hand- Knit 24 sts (needles 1 and 2) put next 4 sts on waste yarn, cast back on 4 sts, knit last 4 sts of round
-Knit 22 rounds (approx 9 inches to bottom of ribbing)
-decrease round- Knit 6sts, K2tog, K2tog, Knit 12sts, K2tog, K2tog, Knit 6 sts
-Knit 1 round (no decreases)
-decrease round- Knit 5 sts, K2tog, K2tog, Knit 11 sts, K2tog, K2tog, Knit 5 sts
-decrease round- Knit 4 sts, K2tog, K2tog, Knit 10 sts, K2tog, K2tog, Knit 4 sts
-decrease round- Knit 3 sts, K2tog, K2tog, Knit 9 sts, K2tog, K2tog, Knit 3 sts
-decrease round- Knit 2 sts, K2tog, K2tog, Knit 8 sts, K2tog, K2tog, Knit 2 sts
-knit next 3 sts on needle 1 and move those stitches to needle 3 so you can do Kitchener stitch
- finish stitching them up and weave in ends.
The Thumb
-Pick up the 4 stitches on waste yarn
-continue to pick up 7 more stitches from around the thumb hole (I had 4 sts on needles 1 and 2 and 3 sts on needle 3)
-Knit 10 rows around (or until your thumb is covered)
-decrease round- Knit 2 sts, K2tog, Knit 2 sts, K2tog, Knit last 3 sts
- cut yarn leaving a good length of yarn to weave in through these sts and pull tight and then continue to weave in these yarn tails from making the thumb.
Written by Christy Snell
Materials:
1 ball Patons SWS yarn (silk wool stripes)
A set of 4, 4.5mm dpns
A set of 4, 5mm dpns
Some waste yarn
A yarn needle
Skills needed:
Knit and Purl
Make 1 (m1)
Knit 2 together (K2tog)
Working in the round on dpns
Picking up stitches
Kitchener stitch
Gauge:
On 5mm needles my gauge was 4.5sts per inch
Difficulty level:
If I can do it, you can do it…
Pattern:
The Mitten
-Cast on 28 stitches on 4.5 dpns. Separate them 7 stitches on first and third needle, 14 stitches on second needle.
-Knit 2 Purl 2 ribbing for 18 rows (approx 3 inches)
-Switch to 5mm needles and knit one round
-increase round- Knit 7sts, m1, knit 14 sts, m1, knit 7 stitches
-Knit 2 rounds
-increase round- Knit 8 sts, m1, Knit 14 sts, m1, knit 8 sts
-Knit 9 rows (approx 5 inches to bottom of ribbing)
-thumb hole round for left hand- Knit 4 sts, put 4 sts on waste yarn, cast back on 4 sts, knit rest of round
-thumb hole round for right hand- Knit 24 sts (needles 1 and 2) put next 4 sts on waste yarn, cast back on 4 sts, knit last 4 sts of round
-Knit 22 rounds (approx 9 inches to bottom of ribbing)
-decrease round- Knit 6sts, K2tog, K2tog, Knit 12sts, K2tog, K2tog, Knit 6 sts
-Knit 1 round (no decreases)
-decrease round- Knit 5 sts, K2tog, K2tog, Knit 11 sts, K2tog, K2tog, Knit 5 sts
-decrease round- Knit 4 sts, K2tog, K2tog, Knit 10 sts, K2tog, K2tog, Knit 4 sts
-decrease round- Knit 3 sts, K2tog, K2tog, Knit 9 sts, K2tog, K2tog, Knit 3 sts
-decrease round- Knit 2 sts, K2tog, K2tog, Knit 8 sts, K2tog, K2tog, Knit 2 sts
-knit next 3 sts on needle 1 and move those stitches to needle 3 so you can do Kitchener stitch
- finish stitching them up and weave in ends.
The Thumb
-Pick up the 4 stitches on waste yarn
-continue to pick up 7 more stitches from around the thumb hole (I had 4 sts on needles 1 and 2 and 3 sts on needle 3)
-Knit 10 rows around (or until your thumb is covered)
-decrease round- Knit 2 sts, K2tog, Knit 2 sts, K2tog, Knit last 3 sts
- cut yarn leaving a good length of yarn to weave in through these sts and pull tight and then continue to weave in these yarn tails from making the thumb.
Written by Christy Snell
Thursday, May 18, 2006
Lace Up Skull Arm Warmers
Lace Up Skull Arm Warmers
Materials
-7US (4.5mm) straight needles and DPNS
-Black worsted weight yarn
-Red worsted weight yarn
-A hank of satin ribbon ( i chose the inch wide one i think)
Skills needed
-Cast On and Off
-Knit
-Purl
- yo= yarn over
-K2tog= knitting 2 stitches together
-m1= make 1 stitch
Pattern
-Cast on 32 stitches on straight needles
-Knit 1 row
-Purl 1 row
-*Knit 2 stitches, yo, K2tog, knit 24 stitches, K2tog, yo, Knit 2 stitches
-Purl row
-Knit row
-Purl row (repeat last 2 rows 2 more times)*
Repeat from * to * once more
-*Knit 2 sts, yo, K2tog, knit 24 sts, K2tog, yo, Knit 2 sts
-Purl row
-Knit row
-Purl row (start charted pattern, the pattern is 18 sts wide, start it 4 stitches in from the side)
-Knit row
-Purl row (repeat last 2 rows once more)*
Repeat from * to * 3 more times continuing in charted pattern. When chart is finished continue on with original pattern
Begin thumb gusset this row...
-Knit 2 sts, you, K2tog, Knit 12 sts, pm (put marker), m1, pm, Knit 12 sts,K2tog, yo, Knit 2 sts
-Purl row-- Purl 16 sts, move marker, m1, purl 1 stitch, m1, move marker, Purl 16 sts
-Knit row -- Knit 16 sts, move marker, m1, knit 3 sts, m1, move marker, Knit 16 sts
(continue these 2 rows increasing 2 stitches per row until there are 13 stitches between the markers, ending with a purl row)
-Knit 2 sts, yo, K2tog, knit 12 sts, put sts between marker on stitch holder save them for later, knit 12 sts, K2tog, yo, Knit 2 sts
-Purl row
Cast Off Loosly
To Work Thumb Gusset...
Use DPN's and pick up stitches 1, 2, 3 with needle #1
pick up stitches 4, 5, 6, 7 with needle #2
pick up stitches 8, 9, 10, 11 with needle #3
with DPN #1 pick up sitches 12 and 13
Begin on DPN #1 knit 1 stitch, K2tog, knit 2 sts
DPN #2 knit 4 stitches
DPN #3 knit 4 sts
continue to work in round for 2 more rows
Cast Off Loosley
Weave in all ends
lace ribbon through eyelet holes begining at hand ending at upper arm
For the second arm warmer the skull pattern is worked on the opposite side...
written by Christy Snell
Materials
-7US (4.5mm) straight needles and DPNS
-Black worsted weight yarn
-Red worsted weight yarn
-A hank of satin ribbon ( i chose the inch wide one i think)
Skills needed
-Cast On and Off
-Knit
-Purl
- yo= yarn over
-K2tog= knitting 2 stitches together
-m1= make 1 stitch
Pattern
-Cast on 32 stitches on straight needles
-Knit 1 row
-Purl 1 row
-*Knit 2 stitches, yo, K2tog, knit 24 stitches, K2tog, yo, Knit 2 stitches
-Purl row
-Knit row
-Purl row (repeat last 2 rows 2 more times)*
Repeat from * to * once more
-*Knit 2 sts, yo, K2tog, knit 24 sts, K2tog, yo, Knit 2 sts
-Purl row
-Knit row
-Purl row (start charted pattern, the pattern is 18 sts wide, start it 4 stitches in from the side)
-Knit row
-Purl row (repeat last 2 rows once more)*
Repeat from * to * 3 more times continuing in charted pattern. When chart is finished continue on with original pattern
Begin thumb gusset this row...
-Knit 2 sts, you, K2tog, Knit 12 sts, pm (put marker), m1, pm, Knit 12 sts,K2tog, yo, Knit 2 sts
-Purl row-- Purl 16 sts, move marker, m1, purl 1 stitch, m1, move marker, Purl 16 sts
-Knit row -- Knit 16 sts, move marker, m1, knit 3 sts, m1, move marker, Knit 16 sts
(continue these 2 rows increasing 2 stitches per row until there are 13 stitches between the markers, ending with a purl row)
-Knit 2 sts, yo, K2tog, knit 12 sts, put sts between marker on stitch holder save them for later, knit 12 sts, K2tog, yo, Knit 2 sts
-Purl row
Cast Off Loosly
To Work Thumb Gusset...
Use DPN's and pick up stitches 1, 2, 3 with needle #1
pick up stitches 4, 5, 6, 7 with needle #2
pick up stitches 8, 9, 10, 11 with needle #3
with DPN #1 pick up sitches 12 and 13
Begin on DPN #1 knit 1 stitch, K2tog, knit 2 sts
DPN #2 knit 4 stitches
DPN #3 knit 4 sts
continue to work in round for 2 more rows
Cast Off Loosley
Weave in all ends
lace ribbon through eyelet holes begining at hand ending at upper arm
For the second arm warmer the skull pattern is worked on the opposite side...
written by Christy Snell
Friday, January 13, 2006
Thursday, January 12, 2006
The Divive Bell Shrug
Materials- Patons Divine (Bulky 5 weight it says on label) 2-3 skeins depending on size
142yards/129 metres
- 8.0mm / 11us straight needles
Guage- (approx due to fuzzy yarn) 10sts by 12 rows= 4 inches
Measurements- required measurements detailed on picture above
Skills Needed- Cast on, Knit, Purl, k2tog, Kitchener stitch (optional), Cast off (optional)
Hints- when it says "continue in stocking knit stitch for 2 inches" this includes the decrease row, a purl row, and then a knit row, purl row, knit row, purl row... 6 rows total... so you dont have to measure each time... but you can just to double check but it worked for me.
Pattern
-Cast on 45 sts
-do stocking knit stitch for 7 inches (ending on a purl row)
-*k2tog the first 2 and the last 2 stitches of the row, continue in stocking knit stitch for 2 inches (ending on purl row)*
-repeat from * to * at 9, 11, 13, 15, 17, etc inches until you reach your length from hand to armpit
- Cast on 3 stitches at begining of next row then knit across that row
- Cast on 3 stitches at the begining of next row then knit across that row
**-continue in garter stitch until (garter stitch) piece measures 1 inch shorter then half of yout back measurement (the yarn should stretch enough to accomodate this)
--> One ball should be enough for for total sleeve length (including the back piece) of 27 inches. Anything larger will probably require another ball of yarn to finish it off...
- Put stitches on stitch holder or a spare needle of similar size to waite to be kitchener stitched
up
- Repeat these sleeve directions twice then kitchener stitch up the back holding the wrong sides together...
**Alternative pattern
- Continue in garter stitch until back piece measures 2 inches shorter then your back measurements
- Cast off 3 stitches from begining of next 2 rows (back to stocking knit stitch) then reverse the pattern adding increases where there was decreases.... and cast off very loosely at the end!!
Written by Christy Snell...
142yards/129 metres
- 8.0mm / 11us straight needles
Guage- (approx due to fuzzy yarn) 10sts by 12 rows= 4 inches
Measurements- required measurements detailed on picture above
Skills Needed- Cast on, Knit, Purl, k2tog, Kitchener stitch (optional), Cast off (optional)
Hints- when it says "continue in stocking knit stitch for 2 inches" this includes the decrease row, a purl row, and then a knit row, purl row, knit row, purl row... 6 rows total... so you dont have to measure each time... but you can just to double check but it worked for me.
Pattern
-Cast on 45 sts
-do stocking knit stitch for 7 inches (ending on a purl row)
-*k2tog the first 2 and the last 2 stitches of the row, continue in stocking knit stitch for 2 inches (ending on purl row)*
-repeat from * to * at 9, 11, 13, 15, 17, etc inches until you reach your length from hand to armpit
- Cast on 3 stitches at begining of next row then knit across that row
- Cast on 3 stitches at the begining of next row then knit across that row
**-continue in garter stitch until (garter stitch) piece measures 1 inch shorter then half of yout back measurement (the yarn should stretch enough to accomodate this)
--> One ball should be enough for for total sleeve length (including the back piece) of 27 inches. Anything larger will probably require another ball of yarn to finish it off...
- Put stitches on stitch holder or a spare needle of similar size to waite to be kitchener stitched
up
- Repeat these sleeve directions twice then kitchener stitch up the back holding the wrong sides together...
**Alternative pattern
- Continue in garter stitch until back piece measures 2 inches shorter then your back measurements
- Cast off 3 stitches from begining of next 2 rows (back to stocking knit stitch) then reverse the pattern adding increases where there was decreases.... and cast off very loosely at the end!!
Written by Christy Snell...
Thursday, December 08, 2005
Ribbed Noro Hat
Ribbed Noro Hat
Materials - 4.5mm/7us Circular needle and/or a set of 4.5mm/7us DPNS
- 1 Ball of Noro Kureyon or Silk Garden (50gr/100metres) or another worsted weight yarn This pattern cuts it real close with the one ball... but it can be done...
- 3 stitch markers
Directions- Cast on 84 stitched onto the circular needle or the dpns, be careful not to twist the stitches.
Then join in the round and start the Knit 2 Purl 2 ribbing.
Continue in the round until it measures 5.75 inches from bottom to needle.
Next row continue with the ribbing pattern but transferring the stitches to the dpns (if not using them already) putting a sitch marker every 14 stitches (28 stitches per needle, only needing the marker in the middle of each needle)
*Next row continue with the ribbed pattern still and when you reach 2 stitches before each marker/end of needle K2tog.Remeber to transfer stitch markers to other needle after doing the decreases. The next row continue around no decreases.*
Repeat from * to * 3 times more.
Then starting on the next row decrease before every stitch marker/end of needle every row until there are 2 stitches left on each needle.
Take yarn needle and pull end through 6 remaining stitches and pull tight and the weave in your ends.
This hat will look small when it's done but since it is done ribbed it stretches to form fit almost anyone's head. If it has to be bigger or smaller just increase or decrease the maount of stitches first cast on. Making sure that it is still divisible by 4 (for the ribbing) and make sure there can still be equal placement of the stitch markers. And you can also lengthen or shorten the "body" of the hat to accomodate larger or smaller heads.
Thats all folks!
Written by Christy Snell
Materials - 4.5mm/7us Circular needle and/or a set of 4.5mm/7us DPNS
- 1 Ball of Noro Kureyon or Silk Garden (50gr/100metres) or another worsted weight yarn This pattern cuts it real close with the one ball... but it can be done...
- 3 stitch markers
Directions- Cast on 84 stitched onto the circular needle or the dpns, be careful not to twist the stitches.
Then join in the round and start the Knit 2 Purl 2 ribbing.
Continue in the round until it measures 5.75 inches from bottom to needle.
Next row continue with the ribbing pattern but transferring the stitches to the dpns (if not using them already) putting a sitch marker every 14 stitches (28 stitches per needle, only needing the marker in the middle of each needle)
*Next row continue with the ribbed pattern still and when you reach 2 stitches before each marker/end of needle K2tog.Remeber to transfer stitch markers to other needle after doing the decreases. The next row continue around no decreases.*
Repeat from * to * 3 times more.
Then starting on the next row decrease before every stitch marker/end of needle every row until there are 2 stitches left on each needle.
Take yarn needle and pull end through 6 remaining stitches and pull tight and the weave in your ends.
This hat will look small when it's done but since it is done ribbed it stretches to form fit almost anyone's head. If it has to be bigger or smaller just increase or decrease the maount of stitches first cast on. Making sure that it is still divisible by 4 (for the ribbing) and make sure there can still be equal placement of the stitch markers. And you can also lengthen or shorten the "body" of the hat to accomodate larger or smaller heads.
Thats all folks!
Written by Christy Snell
Super Fuzzy Diagonally Striped Scarf
Super Fuzzy Diagonally Striped Scarf
Materials: Patons Divine 142 yards/129 metres per ball…bulky weight
In colors Amethyst Allure and Night Sky 1 ball of each
Any bulky yarn will be fine as a substitute, it just might not be as super fuzzy!
Gauge is not too important with this scarf...
If you want to use a smaller weight of a yarn then use smaller needles and keep increasing until its at the width you like!
Size 8mm/11us straight needles
Notes: Inc- increase one stitch… the method I used was knit through the front and then the back of the same stitch, but any method that works for you would suffice.
Dec- decrease one stitch… I used Knit 2 together
This scarf is knit in garter stitch (knit both sides) you can do stocking knit or a mix of stitches depending on which look you like.
Pattern:
Start with the MC (this will be the night sky) and cast on 2 stitches
1st row- Knit these 2 stitches
2nd row- Do an increase on both stitches
3rd row- Knit (all odd # rows from now on, knit)
4th row- Inc on first and the last stitch of the row
6th row- Continue doing the inc’s on first and last stitches until you have 20 stitches on your needle (or you reach the desired width you would like your scarf) the width is one of the sides of the triangle you are knitting not the stitches on your needle.
20th row- Change to the CC (amethyst allure) and inc on first stitch and decrease on last stitch
21st row- Knit across (once again within the stripes all odd # rows just knit across)
22nd row- Inc first stitch and dec last stitch of row (twist the MC with the CC at start of row to carry it up the side of scarf, LOOSLEY)
24th row- Change back to MC and continue the striping with the increases and decreases still on even rows
Continue changing colors every four rows until there are 48 stripes ending with a MC stripe (or it’s reached your own desired length)
210th row- Change to the CC and dec both sides of row
211th row- Knit row
212th row- dec both sides of row
Continue in this pattern until there is 1 stitch left on needle cut yarn and pull through stitch
Sew in loose yarn ends (starting tail and ending tail can be used as fringe!)
If you want you can crochet around the edge of the scarf to cover the yarn that was carried up the side of the scarf, but that is up to you.
Fringe: Wrap the remaining yarn (do both colors separately) 28 times around cardboard that is 9 inches long and then cut the one side, so there is 28 stands (doubled) of each color. Then attach the fringe with a crochet hook to the corresponding end (MC with MC, CC with CC)
Written by Christy Snell
Materials: Patons Divine 142 yards/129 metres per ball…bulky weight
In colors Amethyst Allure and Night Sky 1 ball of each
Any bulky yarn will be fine as a substitute, it just might not be as super fuzzy!
Gauge is not too important with this scarf...
If you want to use a smaller weight of a yarn then use smaller needles and keep increasing until its at the width you like!
Size 8mm/11us straight needles
Notes: Inc- increase one stitch… the method I used was knit through the front and then the back of the same stitch, but any method that works for you would suffice.
Dec- decrease one stitch… I used Knit 2 together
This scarf is knit in garter stitch (knit both sides) you can do stocking knit or a mix of stitches depending on which look you like.
Pattern:
Start with the MC (this will be the night sky) and cast on 2 stitches
1st row- Knit these 2 stitches
2nd row- Do an increase on both stitches
3rd row- Knit (all odd # rows from now on, knit)
4th row- Inc on first and the last stitch of the row
6th row- Continue doing the inc’s on first and last stitches until you have 20 stitches on your needle (or you reach the desired width you would like your scarf) the width is one of the sides of the triangle you are knitting not the stitches on your needle.
20th row- Change to the CC (amethyst allure) and inc on first stitch and decrease on last stitch
21st row- Knit across (once again within the stripes all odd # rows just knit across)
22nd row- Inc first stitch and dec last stitch of row (twist the MC with the CC at start of row to carry it up the side of scarf, LOOSLEY)
24th row- Change back to MC and continue the striping with the increases and decreases still on even rows
Continue changing colors every four rows until there are 48 stripes ending with a MC stripe (or it’s reached your own desired length)
210th row- Change to the CC and dec both sides of row
211th row- Knit row
212th row- dec both sides of row
Continue in this pattern until there is 1 stitch left on needle cut yarn and pull through stitch
Sew in loose yarn ends (starting tail and ending tail can be used as fringe!)
If you want you can crochet around the edge of the scarf to cover the yarn that was carried up the side of the scarf, but that is up to you.
Fringe: Wrap the remaining yarn (do both colors separately) 28 times around cardboard that is 9 inches long and then cut the one side, so there is 28 stands (doubled) of each color. Then attach the fringe with a crochet hook to the corresponding end (MC with MC, CC with CC)
Written by Christy Snell

















